12 Mar MANNUCCI DROANDI, WINES OF MEMORY
by Urano Cupisti -12 March 2019
The meeting with the producers of the Mannucci Droandi company was the occasion of Primanteprima , Florence, Fortezza da Basso, 9 February 2019, where various promotion Consortia presented the wines of their territories in “preview” and not only.
Consorzio Vini Doc Valdarno di Sopra . Proudly Excellence since 1716 .
Fifteen companies, with their wines, proudly claim their choice towards sustainable agriculture so as to claim the “right” to modify the specification allowing new companies to join it only if certified Bio . In short, give life in Italy to the first BIO certified Doc . Will they succeed?
The bottles of the Mannucci Droandi company struck me immediately, in addition to the graphic appearance, for the content stated on the label: Foglia Tonda, Barsaglina, Pugnitello , old native Tuscan vines recovered in an experimental vineyard.
It is obvious that the dialogue with the producers has been particularly focused on this experiment.
“The experimental vineyard. Consistent with the decision to safeguard biodiversity, the company has long collaborated with the Research Unit for Viticulture in Arezzo, thanks to the creation of an experimental vineyard in which old vines were planted once widespread in the area and now at risk of extinction “.
For one who, like myself, is dedicated to communication, finding companies like Mannucci Droandi , can only be like “the manna that comes down from heaven”. And I’m not exaggerating at all.
A bit of history
“ Mannucci Droandi draws its origins from the agricultural and wine traditions of two families, the Mannucci and the Droandi. Conducted since 2000 with the method of certified organic farming, this choice, together with the enhancement of native grapes, constitutes the fundamental basis of our work “.
Two qualifying elements that distinguish this company: the biological choice and the enhancement of native vines.
The vineyards
“In the vineyards, the Sangiovese dominates, both in the old, in the new plants and, in the cellar, respect for tradition joins the necessary attention that is now taken for granted in order to obtain the best quality”. But it is the experimental vineyard that involves the most.
“With the grapes of those old varieties some microvinifications have been carried out which have offered promising indications. Making these rarities in purity means restoring the possibility of experiencing forgotten sensations ”.
The philosophy
Certainly the decisions regarding the “bio” choice, the abandonment of the “in-game” sale, the acceptance of agronomic and oenological techniques to reach bottling, have been fundamental steps for the growth, particularity and peculiarity of the work. But the basic concept, the true philosophy remains that which came from the words of the producers:
“Every harvest represents a moment of reflection, the point of arrival of the labors of a year, but also the starting point towards higher goals”.
The tasting
Barsaglina. Tuscan IGT Rosso BIO 2015. Barsaglina 100%
Company notes : the Barsaglina is a Tuscan vine, originating from the Province of Massa Carrara, described for the first time in the Bulletin of the Agricultural Committee of Massa in 1874.
The selected grapes were first de-stemmed and gently crushed and then vinified in small-capacity vats (10 hectoliters), with prolonged maceration (20 days) and managed by pumping over with dèlestages; after the drawing off and the soft pressing of the pomace, the prompt execution of the malolactic fermentation was the necessary premise for the subsequent maturation (14 months) in French oak barrels (2nd and 3rd passage); finally, 3 months of glass completed the refinement.
My evaluations: He was fascinated by the fruity impact. In the mouth vinous, frank, the wine of the past, Search for balance between softness, freshness and flavor. Interesting and intriguing. Very good, vote 87/100
Pugnitello, Igt Toscana Rosso BIO 2015. Pugnitello 100%
Company notes: The Pugnitello vine gives a very intense ruby red wine with violet hues. The nose is slightly herbaceous while the palate reveals a full taste, high alcohol content, good acidity and high finesse tannins. It exhibits a complex set of fruity and savory aromas such as cherry and blackberry together with leather and earth.
The selected grapes were first de-stemmed and gently pressed and then vinified in small-capacity vats (5 hectoliters), with prolonged maceration (20 days) and managed by pumping over with intervals of dèlestages; after the drawing off and the soft pressing of the pomace, the prompt execution of malolactic fermentation was the necessary premise for the subsequent maturation (24 months) in French oak barrels (2nd and 3rd passage); finally, 6 months of glass completed the refinement.
My ratings: Colorful nose, refined. On the palate large extract and good freshness and flavor. Pronounced tannin. Excellent, vote 88/100
Round Leaf Igt Tuscany Red BIO 2015. Round Leaf 100%
Company Notes: Foglia Tonda is a Tuscan grape variety, originally from the Province of Siena, described for the first time by Di Rovasenda in 1877.
The selected grapes were first de-stemmed and gently crushed and then vinified in small-capacity vats (10 hectoliters), with prolonged maceration (20 days) and managed by pumping over with dèlestages; after the drawing off and the soft pressing of the pomace, the prompt execution of the malolactic fermentation was the necessary premise for the subsequent maturation (14 months) in French oak barrels (2nd and 3rd passage); finally, 3 months of glass completed the refinement.
My evaluations: Intense and expressive. Refined aromatic atmosphere. On the palate it is powerful, well-extracted and persistent tannins. Excellent, vote 88/100
The experience tested by tasting the wines of the Mannucci Droandi company at the Consorzio Valdarno di Sopra counter is a great experience. Interesting conversation with the producers: the discovery of a reality that originates from the wine traditions of a Tuscany that never ceases to amaze. Chapeau!
Urano Cupisti
Tasting on 9 February 2019
Mannucci Droandi
Via Rossinello and Campolucci 79,
Loc. Caposelvi, 52025 Montevarchi (AR) Italy,
Tel./Fax: +39 055 9707276
e-mail: info@mannuccidroandi.com